On Jan. 12 we posted a copy of a 96 hour weather fax forecast showing a storm brewing in the west pacific. We thought it would push some waves our way. It turns out the storm was pretty big.....one report saying at the peak there were waves the size of four story buildings in the middle of it. Another said the fetch (size of the storm generating waves) was aprox. the size of the continental U.S. That's pretty big. A huge high pressure system off the west coast of the United States has kept it warm and sunny in California, and it kept the storm away from our shores.
What does that mean? Today and tomorrow we are getting some sizable surf with a REALLY long swell period...up to almost 20 seconds. That means at the beach it will be flat for awhile then out of nowhere a huge wave shows up....then it goes flat again. Check the forecast below. We'll post a couple photos of the surf later.
